In the Kitchen With Chef Shi Lei at Beijing's Jianguo Hotel

Improvising with substitutions for gong bao chicken

Source: Susan Orlins

Chinese chefs prep before cooking

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Recently, during a visit to China, I had the opportunity to meet with Chef Shi Lei at the renowned Jianguo, Beijing's first joint venture hotel. Chef Shi's kitchen is a model of culinary organization. 

Along one wall the prepping takes place. A row of men in white jackets and chef's hats create a chopping cacophony. The other wall is lined with burners and steamy woks. Between the walls, bowls filled with every possible ingredient sit on a table that nearly spans the length of the room.

A blend of aromas wafts from the chopped vegetables after they get scooped into the hot vegetable oil: onion, eggplant, bell pepper, spring onion, bean curd. There are also bowls of lettuce, pork, chicken, beef as well as flavorings like salt, sugar, rock salt, pepper, chili sauce and bean paste.

Because in Chinese cooking, the ingredients are prepped ahead of time, Chef Shi says the average dish takes only three minutes to actually cook. So it's no surprise that Chinese food delivery often arrives only 20 minutes after calling in the order.

Chef Shi Lei advises that, when cooking in a wok, you should shake the wok almost continuously and stir using a long spoon. He outlined a gong bao recipe for me; below, is my version based on that.

For the most part Chef Shi did not specify amounts. However, unless I'm making something like a sauce, one thing I don't worry about is that I frequently measure according to whim, adding more of favorite ingredients in proportion to others. Chinese dishes lend themselves especially well to creative proportions.

You may need to go to a Chinese grocery store for some of the ingredients, but, if you're like me, you won't mind experimenting with substitutes. I've included my ideas for substitutions.

Easy Gong Bao Chicken

(FoodReference Website offers the helpful hint of whisking the cornstarch with 1½ Tbl rice wine—I used rice vinegar—to inhibit clumping)*

Vegetable oil to coat the wok

1 lb. Chicken leg, cut into bite-sized pieces (I prefer using chicken breast)

1 Leek, the white part, ¼ inch slices

2 t (or more if you like it hot) chili pepper sauce

6 dried chili peppers, more or less (I made a simple version without going to Chinatown, so I didn't use this characteristic ingredient. Instead, I added dry crushed hot pepper flakes before eating.)

2 t Sugar (which, along with the vinegar, gives almost a sweet and sour flavor, adjust according to your taste.)

Chinese vinegar (I substituted 1 Tbl dry white wine and 5 Tbl rice vinegar, which makes the color lighter than if you use dark brown Chinese vinegar)

1 Tbl sesame oil

1 ½ Tbl Cornstarch (I substituted 3 Tbl white flour)

Peanuts

Salt to taste

Heat vegetable oil in wok until it's very hot. Add leeks and after a minute or so, mix in everything else, except the cornstarch, peanuts and salt. After stirring well, add a small amount of salt. Then add cornstarch* to thicken the sauce a bit. After the cooking finishes, add peanuts. Serve with rice and hot pepper flakes on the side.

After making this, I became enchanted by the combination of sesame oil, sugar and rice vinegar. Experiment with proportions and try it over salad or steamed vegetables. As with all recipes there are countless variations of gong bao chicken, ones that include garlic, ginger, a tablespoon of chicken stock and more. Wikipedia offers further details, including a suggestion of substituting tofu for chicken. 

Bon appétit!

I'd love to see your favorite Chinese recipe, as well as learn any tips you have for Chinese cooking, in the comments!

Check out my other China and food-related articles:


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